Comments on: Trunk grafting – black pine

By: Nuno Encarnação

Nuno Encarnação — Fri, 28 Jan 2011 11:57:37 +0000

Hi!

First, let me congratulate you for the wonderful blog that you publish. I’ve learned a lot for all off your posts.

I belong to a local bonsai club here in Portugal and I’d like to ask for your permission to translate this post and use your images to ilustrate the process of grafting in pines, since some of our local members can´t read english.

Thank you and keep up the good work!

Nuno

By: bonsaijapan

bonsaijapan — Sun, 12 Dec 2010 22:58:58 +0000

Thanks for that Jonas,

I have had some good success with branch grafting this season and look forward to trying to get some trunk grafts to work next season.

I will try to make a post on some of my observations soon.

Talk soon,
Joe.

By: xwires

xwires — Fri, 10 Dec 2010 04:38:29 +0000

Hi Joe – the goal is to get the cambium layers on scion and host to line up which means the scion’s cambium layer will line up a bit below the chisel cut. Depending on the thickness of the bark and the angle of the chisel, this may be just below the cut or further in. You’re right about getting the sides to line up – the more cambium that lines up, the better. Because there’s less exposed cambium on the host with this method, it’s naturally harder to get trunk grafts to take.

As expected, the graft made at the top of the trunk failed quickly – I’ll try to get better pics as I get ready to graft again next month.

By: bonsaijapan

bonsaijapan — Fri, 10 Dec 2010 01:38:01 +0000

Hi Jonas.

I have not yet tried grafting bud to trunks like you have shown above but i can see the benefits. Just one quick question. Are you aligning the cambium at the top of the chisel cut?

When i have bud grafted branches i have made use of the exposed cambium along the length of the cut but it appears that with the above technique you only expose the cambium of the trunk at the top of the incision.

I hope to see updates on your success of these grafts.

thanks,

Joe

By: xwires

xwires — Thu, 19 Aug 2010 15:05:26 +0000

Sarita – I’ve had the best luck grafting pines when it’s cold out, towards the end of winter. While humidity is great for keeping the scions from drying out, it’s more important that the tree’s sap is flowing very slowly when the graft is made. When it’s warm out, during spring, summer and much of fall, the sap runs fast. If sap gets between the scion and the tree, it’s much harder for the graft to take. It’s for this reason that grafts are made quickly – to avoid letting the incision fill with sap before getting the scion into place.

By: sarita

sarita — Thu, 19 Aug 2010 10:00:21 +0000

thanks for grafting tips along with illustration. is the rainy season, or huimid climate perfect for grafting pines.

By: xwires

xwires — Mon, 15 Mar 2010 07:14:22 +0000

Hi Will – I use a hammer. Although the bark is usually soft, the wood beneath is not. When hammering, I try to prevent the tree from moving around a lot in the pot to avoid damaging the roots.

By: Will Feldman

Will Feldman — Mon, 15 Mar 2010 04:07:30 +0000

Do you use a hammer to insert the chisel? Or can the chisel just be pushed into the trunk?

By: xwires

xwires — Thu, 11 Mar 2010 23:39:11 +0000

Hi Michael – Good questions. Grafting after-care is a big topic about which I only know a bit. As I understand it, it’s a good idea to maintain some sap flow past a graft union but not too much or the tree will find little reason to put energy into the scion. I also shade the bags. I’ve tried covering the entire bag, covering just the top of the bag, leaving it uncovered, and keeping the entire tree under shade cloth. I think giving the scion some break from the full sun is important, and more important for conifers than for deciduous trees. I’ll post more specifics as I discover them.

By: Michael M

Michael M — Thu, 11 Mar 2010 18:54:56 +0000

Very clear, Thanks. What about after care? I know with grafting to branches it helps to reduce and then eliminate growth further out on the branch, to “force” more water flow into the graft area. With grafting on the trunk do you reduce or eliminate branches above the graft to help redirect the sap flow? Do you ever shade the bagged graft to keep it from over heating or is it better in full sun?
Thanks
Michael