Jojakko-ji and Tenryu-ji
Jojakko-ji was the hilliest of the temples I visited. Winding paths led higher and higher up the mountain until I could see Kyoto in the distance. The temple was founded around the end of the 16th century by Nisshen, 16th Head Priest of Honkoku-ji. Jojakko-ji’s website offers a step-by-step primer on the temple.
Niomon gate
Great roots
Memorial stone
Mossy hillside
Although the maples at Jojakko-ji were a week or two shy of peak color, there was still plenty to be seen
Tahoto (two-storied) Pagoda
Atop Jojakko-ji – Kyoto in the distance
Grave
Stone figures
Moss and maples
It took a while for me to find the next temple. Numerous pedestrian paths clogged with tourists wind through hills, houses, shops and an intimidating bamboo forest. I passed this bamboo gate just above the bamboo forest.
Bamboo gate
Fortunately, I made it to Tenryu-ji, Temple of the Heavenly Dragon, before dusk settled in. The entrance was understated. Once inside, I found an animated group pitching coins into a pond, trying to land the offerings in the lap of a frog atop a frog.
Good luck!
Pond with frogs and yen
Further inside the complex, I saw people strolling along a covered walkway that connected the various temple buildings. I couldn’t for the life of me find my way inside.
Tahoden
Rounding yet another aged temple building, I beheld Sogenchi Garden.
Sogenchi Garden
The garden was beautiful – and famous. I’d seen it in many Japanese landscape books. Turns out it is quite old. It was designed in the 14th century by Musou Soseki. It was the first Special Historical Scenic Area named by the Japanese government and has since been recognized as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site. The main hall was located right next to the garden.
Main Hall
The current main hall was built in the late 19th century. Over the years, the temple has been struck by fire 8 times, most recently in 1864. Set square against the pond, it offered great views of the garden. But I still couldn’t find a way in.
Maples across the pond
Great stone work
Famous red pine reaching across the water
Tenryu-ji has taken advantage of the Internet. They have a website and a twitter feed that features great photos of the garden throughout the year – it’s worth a visit.
Sogenchi garden and Main Hall
I left Tenryu-ji happy to have seen the garden, but puzzled at having missed the entrance to the temple buildings. As I headed toward Togetsu-kyo Bridge, Arashiyama’s tourist hub, I found more and more tourists. I headed against traffic for about half an hour before I saw the entrance to the temple. Turns the garden entrance and temple entrances are at opposite ends of the complex. Out front, I discovered one of my favorite stone arrangements.
Stone garden in front of Tenryu-ji
Once inside, I traversed the covered walkway and peered inside the temple buildings. Having finally seen the place inside and out, I spent my remaining time appreciating the garden.
Sogenchi garden from the main temple hall
So ended my two-day visit to Kyoto’s gardens. The next day I woke early to help with the setup at Taikan-ten. Before returning to my hotel in Otsu, I walked through downtown Kyoto and passed, again, the winding streets below Kiyomizu-dera where I found a shrine illuminated by scores of lanterns.
Yasaaka Shrine
Thanks for visiting Kyoto with me. I will return to the regularly scheduled bonsai blogging next week. Happy New Year!
Arashiyama
Arashiyama is a neighborhood on the western edge of Kyoto with many temples and related tourist destinations. It appeared to be a popular destination for Japanese in town to see the fall color. As I walked the skinny streets through farms and modest residential neighborhoods on a day that threatened, but failed to deliver rain, I passed thousands of visitors pointing cameras and exchanging “wows” at every red, pink, orange, and yellow tree we passed. It was as if the whole town was on holiday, and for the most part, it was. I rode a Kyoto City Bus to the end of the line and began my tour at Daikaku-ji Temple.
Daikaku-ji Temple
Daikaku-ji began life as the detached palace of Emperor Saga, but was converted to a temple in 876. Elevated walkways connected a number of buildings in the complex and offered a great view of the gardens.
Elevated walkway and garden
Detached buildings
Flower display at main garden
Seiryo-ji Temple
Awesome fall color greeted me at Seiryo-ji, a 1000-plus year-old temple a short walk from Daikaku-ji. Also known as Saga Shakado, the temple grounds feature a beautiful pond with a picturesque island.
Great color
Colorful maples and moss
A sheltered walkway led visitors through the garden about 4 meters from the ground. The views were super.
The view from the garden’s covered walkway
Island with lantern and pagoda
In search of the next temple, I walked a ways up a shop-lined street and found a large gate, Toriimoto.
Toriimoto
Asking several passersby where I could find Adashino Nenbutsu-ji and receiving several answers, I walked for some time up and down this street, often consulting my map, until I happened upon a staircase that led to the temple.
Adashino Nenbutsu-ji
Adashino Nenbutsu-ji sits in a area where bodies were often discarded. Today the temple, established in 811, contains over 8,000 statues that memorialize the souls of the dead. On occasion the statues are lit with candles – an event I’d like to see some day.
Statues memorialize the souls of the dead
Pagoda at the center of Adashino Nenbutsu-ji
Bamboo forest at the edge of the temple grounds
1,000s of statues
Moss and lichen make for unmistakable age
Colorful maples brighten the scene
The path leading to and from the temple
Gio-ji Temple
Gio-ji is famous for an intriguing story (Tale of the Heike) involving discarded concubines, and for its beautiful moss garden. I saw no signs of concubines.
Moss garden at Gio-ji
Stone lantern
Maples and moss
The sky above Gio-ji
Danrin-ji Temple
Danrin-ji is Japan’s first Zen temple. It was founded in the ninth century in Sagano. In the 14th century, construction of Tenryu-ji began on the grounds and at some point the temple moved to its current location.
Pagoda at Danrin-ji
Fall color
Stone lantern near Danrin-ji
Nison-in Temple
Nison-in, formally known as Ogurayama Nison-in Kedai-ji, is famous for its statues of Shaka and Amida. Once designated as one of the “Four Auspicious Temples” in Kyoto, it served as the location where candidate High Priests received purple robes, symbolic of the highest rank in Buddhism (Temple brochure).
The entrance to the temple
Temple gardens
More fall color
The view through the main gate
Awesome color
Tomorrow: Temple Week, Day 7 – Jojakko-ji and Tenryu-ji
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Kiyomizu-dera
I caught as many gardens as I could during the daylight hours on my first day in Kyoto. Eager to see more, I found a temple that was open at night – the Kiyomizu-dera. Kiyomizu means clear or pure water. The Kiyomizu-dera temple takes its name from Otowa waterfall. The water has been channeled into three streams from which visitors can drink to gain the water’s wish-granting powers. (It’s too early for me to comment on its efficacy.) The temple dates from 778 and the current building, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, from 1633. No nails were used in the construction of the building (details compliments Wikipedia).
The temple is also home to the garden of Jojuin, “The Garden of the Moon.” Many visitors walk right past it. If you get the chance, I recommend waiting in line for the chance to see it. No photos were allowed when I visited, but you can catch a tiny glimpse of the garden on the Kiyomizu-dera website.
The crowds at the temple entrance reminded me of Disneyland at night.
Kiyomizu-dera Temple
Pagoda near the temple
View of Kyoto from Temple porch
Cool/creepy forest behind the temple
Glowing forest
Awesome udon – or maybe I was really cold and the noodle soup was just the thing. I can still taste it!
Maples lower down on the mountain had yet to change color
The street below the temple were lined with shops vending food and souvenirs. Oh how I miss Kyoto’s supple mochi!
Tomorrow: Temple week day 6 – Arashiyama
Daitoku-ji
Daitoku-ji is a Kyoto temple dating from the early 14th century. Over time, 22 sub-temples have been added to the complex making the 56 acres that comprise the grounds a super destination for enjoying Japanese gardens. A number of Daitoku-ji’s gardens are only open a few weeks each year – others are usually open to the public. Some allow photography, some limit photography, and others allow no photography at all. Here is a glance at the sub-temples I visited in November.
Obai-in
I walked right in to the first garden I passed, Obai-in. Later I found out it’s rarely open to the public. Although they don’t allow photographs in the main gardens, they do allow photographs in the courtyard just inside the entrance. It turned out to be one of my favorite gardens of the day, and I didn’t see anyone inside until I was on my way 0ut. Here are some shots from the entrance area.
Stone lantern
Stones and moss beneath maples.
Obai-in dates from the 16th century – these rocks have been sitting here for a while
Stones and pine bark in moss
Path and gate to the side garden
Ryogen-in
I was very excited to visit the next temple I came to – Ryogen-in. I’d seen photographs of the temple’s five gardens in many Japanese landscape books. The main garden is called Isshidan.
Isshidan
The moss mound is known as Tortoise Island – the white sand, the sea
The tall stone symbolizes Mt. Horai
Path leading between gardens
My favorite of Ryogen-in’s gardens is Ryogin-tei. In many ways, It might be my favorite garden anywhere. A few stones are arranged toward the back of a sea of moss. Some shrubs and a single tree complete the scene. It is the oldest of Daitoku-ji’s gardens, created by a famous artist of the time, Soami.
Ryogin-tei
The iconic stones at the garden’s center
The garden’s lone tree
It’s a very small garden
Korin-in
A short walk brought me to Korin-in, the family temple of Saemonno-suke Hatakeyama, Lord of Noto prefecture circa 1520.
Entrance area
Korin-in’s main garden expresses the idea of paradise. “An azalea bush and stones are the symbol of the Elysian mountain,” says the Temple brochure.
The heavenly scene at Korin-in
Looking toward the entrance
Many gardens featured “windows” like the one pictured above. Some gardens, like Hoshun-in, only allowed photography through such a window.
Side garden
Mossy garden between buildings
Hoshun-in
Hoshun-in features two gardens, Kagantei and Donkokaku. Donkokaku is one of Kyoto’s famous rokaku (pavilion) including Kinkaku, Ginkaku and Hiunkaku. No photography allowed. The following shots show Kagantei through the “window” at the garden’s entrance.
Kagantei Garden
Main Hall and Kagantei at Hoshun-in
Hoshun-in entrance garden
Daisen-in
Daisen-in is one of the most famous sub-temples at Daitoku-ji. The small rock garden follows the flow of water through a dry scene around two sides of the temple. No photos are allowed, however you can take a virtual tour online. From the brochure: “If you would like to be served green tea while looking at this garden, please try to say ‘O-cha kudasai,’ and you will have another unforgettable memory.” Out front is a crazy white pine.
White pine in front of Daisen-in
Koto-in
The last temple I visited in the Daitoku-ji complex is Koto-in. The temple was established in 1601 at the behest of Hosokawa Tadaoki, a military leader in the campaign that led to the Tokugawa shogunate. Tadaoki devoted his later life to the study of Zen. His wife, somewhat incongruously, was a devout Catholic.
Garden entrance
Looking toward garden entrance
A common sight in Kyoto in fall
The trees they were looking at
Approach to the main garden
The main garden – super use of color
Stone path
Wash basin
What color!
The view from the tea house
Another view from the tea house
Tomorrow: temple week continues with Kiyomizudera at night!
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