A really full black pine
The Japanese black pine below was one of the many great trees I saw in the workshop during my visit to Aichi-en last fall. I caught Peter Tea cleaning it up for the sales area at Gomangoku. You can see a before photo on Peter’s blog.
What made the tree stand out to me? The fullness, the health, and the density of shoots were impressive, and the bark and roots were also very good, but above all, I appreciated the silhouette of the tree. Solid blocks of foliage can do a great job defining a tree’s character.
Good balance between the left and right sides of the tree, a clearly defined key branch – the lowest branch on the left – and a window in the foliage that reveals the trunk are all conventional markers of good pine bonsai.
Japanese black pine – front
When we look at the tree from the side, we can see that it “leans” strongly forward. Put another way, the apex lies in front of the center of the pot by a significant margin. This feature is common among pines in Central Japan, but I don’t see it as much on pines, or other trees for that matter, in Northern California.
Right side
Left side
The foliage in the back of the tree was solid and dense.
Back
Despite the tree’s beauty in this state, it was only intended to look this good for a short time. Normally, far more needles are removed in winter. Last I heard, the tree sold at the show but remains in the care of Aichi-en where it will continue to develop.
Bay Island Bonsai’s 13th Annual Exhibit!
If you are planning to be in Northern California this weekend, I strongly encourage you to head over to Bay Island Bonsai’s 13th Annual Exhibit at the Lakeside Garden Center in Oakland, CA. The event promises to be a good time. It’s our first exhibit in the location and we’re really looking forward to it – come join us!
Jojakko-ji and Tenryu-ji
Jojakko-ji was the hilliest of the temples I visited. Winding paths led higher and higher up the mountain until I could see Kyoto in the distance. The temple was founded around the end of the 16th century by Nisshen, 16th Head Priest of Honkoku-ji. Jojakko-ji’s website offers a step-by-step primer on the temple.
Niomon gate
Great roots
Memorial stone
Mossy hillside
Although the maples at Jojakko-ji were a week or two shy of peak color, there was still plenty to be seen
Tahoto (two-storied) Pagoda
Atop Jojakko-ji – Kyoto in the distance
Grave
Stone figures
Moss and maples
It took a while for me to find the next temple. Numerous pedestrian paths clogged with tourists wind through hills, houses, shops and an intimidating bamboo forest. I passed this bamboo gate just above the bamboo forest.
Bamboo gate
Fortunately, I made it to Tenryu-ji, Temple of the Heavenly Dragon, before dusk settled in. The entrance was understated. Once inside, I found an animated group pitching coins into a pond, trying to land the offerings in the lap of a frog atop a frog.
Good luck!
Pond with frogs and yen
Further inside the complex, I saw people strolling along a covered walkway that connected the various temple buildings. I couldn’t for the life of me find my way inside.
Tahoden
Rounding yet another aged temple building, I beheld Sogenchi Garden.
Sogenchi Garden
The garden was beautiful – and famous. I’d seen it in many Japanese landscape books. Turns out it is quite old. It was designed in the 14th century by Musou Soseki. It was the first Special Historical Scenic Area named by the Japanese government and has since been recognized as a UNESCO World Cultural Heritage site. The main hall was located right next to the garden.
Main Hall
The current main hall was built in the late 19th century. Over the years, the temple has been struck by fire 8 times, most recently in 1864. Set square against the pond, it offered great views of the garden. But I still couldn’t find a way in.
Maples across the pond
Great stone work
Famous red pine reaching across the water
Tenryu-ji has taken advantage of the Internet. They have a website and a twitter feed that features great photos of the garden throughout the year – it’s worth a visit.
Sogenchi garden and Main Hall
I left Tenryu-ji happy to have seen the garden, but puzzled at having missed the entrance to the temple buildings. As I headed toward Togetsu-kyo Bridge, Arashiyama’s tourist hub, I found more and more tourists. I headed against traffic for about half an hour before I saw the entrance to the temple. Turns the garden entrance and temple entrances are at opposite ends of the complex. Out front, I discovered one of my favorite stone arrangements.
Stone garden in front of Tenryu-ji
Once inside, I traversed the covered walkway and peered inside the temple buildings. Having finally seen the place inside and out, I spent my remaining time appreciating the garden.
Sogenchi garden from the main temple hall
So ended my two-day visit to Kyoto’s gardens. The next day I woke early to help with the setup at Taikan-ten. Before returning to my hotel in Otsu, I walked through downtown Kyoto and passed, again, the winding streets below Kiyomizu-dera where I found a shrine illuminated by scores of lanterns.
Yasaaka Shrine
Thanks for visiting Kyoto with me. I will return to the regularly scheduled bonsai blogging next week. Happy New Year!
Arashiyama
Arashiyama is a neighborhood on the western edge of Kyoto with many temples and related tourist destinations. It appeared to be a popular destination for Japanese in town to see the fall color. As I walked the skinny streets through farms and modest residential neighborhoods on a day that threatened, but failed to deliver rain, I passed thousands of visitors pointing cameras and exchanging “wows” at every red, pink, orange, and yellow tree we passed. It was as if the whole town was on holiday, and for the most part, it was. I rode a Kyoto City Bus to the end of the line and began my tour at Daikaku-ji Temple.
Daikaku-ji Temple
Daikaku-ji began life as the detached palace of Emperor Saga, but was converted to a temple in 876. Elevated walkways connected a number of buildings in the complex and offered a great view of the gardens.
Elevated walkway and garden
Detached buildings
Flower display at main garden
Seiryo-ji Temple
Awesome fall color greeted me at Seiryo-ji, a 1000-plus year-old temple a short walk from Daikaku-ji. Also known as Saga Shakado, the temple grounds feature a beautiful pond with a picturesque island.
Great color
Colorful maples and moss
A sheltered walkway led visitors through the garden about 4 meters from the ground. The views were super.
The view from the garden’s covered walkway
Island with lantern and pagoda
In search of the next temple, I walked a ways up a shop-lined street and found a large gate, Toriimoto.
Toriimoto
Asking several passersby where I could find Adashino Nenbutsu-ji and receiving several answers, I walked for some time up and down this street, often consulting my map, until I happened upon a staircase that led to the temple.
Adashino Nenbutsu-ji
Adashino Nenbutsu-ji sits in a area where bodies were often discarded. Today the temple, established in 811, contains over 8,000 statues that memorialize the souls of the dead. On occasion the statues are lit with candles – an event I’d like to see some day.
Statues memorialize the souls of the dead
Pagoda at the center of Adashino Nenbutsu-ji
Bamboo forest at the edge of the temple grounds
1,000s of statues
Moss and lichen make for unmistakable age
Colorful maples brighten the scene
The path leading to and from the temple
Gio-ji Temple
Gio-ji is famous for an intriguing story (Tale of the Heike) involving discarded concubines, and for its beautiful moss garden. I saw no signs of concubines.
Moss garden at Gio-ji
Stone lantern
Maples and moss
The sky above Gio-ji
Danrin-ji Temple
Danrin-ji is Japan’s first Zen temple. It was founded in the ninth century in Sagano. In the 14th century, construction of Tenryu-ji began on the grounds and at some point the temple moved to its current location.
Pagoda at Danrin-ji
Fall color
Stone lantern near Danrin-ji
Nison-in Temple
Nison-in, formally known as Ogurayama Nison-in Kedai-ji, is famous for its statues of Shaka and Amida. Once designated as one of the “Four Auspicious Temples” in Kyoto, it served as the location where candidate High Priests received purple robes, symbolic of the highest rank in Buddhism (Temple brochure).
The entrance to the temple
Temple gardens
More fall color
The view through the main gate
Awesome color
Tomorrow: Temple Week, Day 7 – Jojakko-ji and Tenryu-ji
Kiyomizu-dera
I caught as many gardens as I could during the daylight hours on my first day in Kyoto. Eager to see more, I found a temple that was open at night – the Kiyomizu-dera. Kiyomizu means clear or pure water. The Kiyomizu-dera temple takes its name from Otowa waterfall. The water has been channeled into three streams from which visitors can drink to gain the water’s wish-granting powers. (It’s too early for me to comment on its efficacy.) The temple dates from 778 and the current building, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, from 1633. No nails were used in the construction of the building (details compliments Wikipedia).
The temple is also home to the garden of Jojuin, “The Garden of the Moon.” Many visitors walk right past it. If you get the chance, I recommend waiting in line for the chance to see it. No photos were allowed when I visited, but you can catch a tiny glimpse of the garden on the Kiyomizu-dera website.
The crowds at the temple entrance reminded me of Disneyland at night.
Kiyomizu-dera Temple
Pagoda near the temple
View of Kyoto from Temple porch
Cool/creepy forest behind the temple
Glowing forest
Awesome udon – or maybe I was really cold and the noodle soup was just the thing. I can still taste it!
Maples lower down on the mountain had yet to change color
The street below the temple were lined with shops vending food and souvenirs. Oh how I miss Kyoto’s supple mochi!
Tomorrow: Temple week day 6 – Arashiyama
2 comments