Although the basics of spring maintenance stay the same from year to year, I’ll often make adjustments based on how the tree is growing.
My standard approach to pruning ume, for example, is to cut every branch back to two or three new buds. Here’s a look at the result of last year’s cutback.
Ume – July, 2019 (see “Directional pruning” for details)
This year, the tree produced a lot of spring growth.
Ume – May, 2020
Not all of the branches, however, had similar vigor, so I treated the stronger and weaker branches differently.
I reduced the strongest branches to two or three new buds and defoliated the outer portions of the remaining branches but didn’t prune them. Here’s what this looked like.
Ume after cutback and partial defoliation – 16″ from top of jin to lowest branch
I’ve found that when I prune shoots under three or four inches long, I can’t expect vigorous new shoots to develop. At most, I’ll get one or two buds of equivalent strength which means that these branches don’t change much from year to year.
This is fine for mature ume that already have dense branching, but it’s not the most effective approach for increasing branch density. By letting the weaker shoots continue to grow until fall, I hope to get a stronger response when the tree leafs out next spring. In the meantime, I’ll let the tree grow until fall when it’s time for cutback again.
Video Consultations Now Available
Have questions about your trees? Schedule an appointment to discuss strategies for improving your bonsai. Learn more about Bonsai Tonight’s Video Consulting.
English-language consultations are available worldwide.
Subscribe to Bonsai Tonight
New Posts Delivered Every Tuesday and Friday
Yaroslav says
Very interesting method. By defolating the weak branches, we stimulate budding and growth (but on the other hand, less leaves == less energy?). Cutting off strong shoots, we make the tree transfer auxin to weak branches. Hmm, will this technique work on other deciduous species with weak lower branches?
Jonas Dupuich says
Hi Yaroslav – yes, the technique works with a number of deciduous species. And you’re right about the weak branches – defoliating reduces vigor. That said, the strong branches were cut back, and cutting back does more to slow a branch down than defoliating it. I also left leaves on the interior of the weak branches as it’s these areas that I want to grow stronger.
Alexander says
Very useful information thank you! How do I proceed in fall? Do I cut everything back to two? I’m not interested in flowers at this point I just want to build ramification. Very thankful for any help. Ume is still hard to wrap my head around. Thanks again
Jonas Dupuich says
Thanks Alexander! In general, yes, you can cut back to 2-3 buds. Because ume doesn’t always bud where we want it to, there may be some dieback. Cutting back to locations where there are visible buds is safest, but if that leaves long internodes, then grafting is the best option.
Here’s a look at the fall work I did last year: https://bonsaitonight.com/2019/12/13/ume-observations-and-cutback/