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Hard cutback on satsuki azaleas

May 7, 2021 by Jonas Dupuich

A number of my azaleas have been slow to leaf out this year. Here’s an example.

Kozan-no-hikari

Exposed-root Kozan-no-hikari

As you can see, the foliage is anemic and the old leaves curve downward. It’s the first time I’ve seen these symptoms so I checked my satsuki books and talked with friends who have good experience with azaleas. I couldn’t find a reference to curled leaves in print and my friends didn’t have much experience with this either.

We all agreed that the roots weren’t happy and that I’d have to be careful with the watering (thanks, Darren!). The most dramatic suggestion came from a satsuki grower in Japan who suggested a hard cutback. I thought I’d give it a try.

After cutback

After cutback – 16″

The idea is that the roots aren’t able to support the existing foliage and that stimulating new growth can result in healthier roots and foliage.

I don’t know if this will work, but I do know that many satsuki are imported after similar cutback is performed on the foliage and on the roots.

Were the tree growing more vigorously, I would have waited for the flowers to open and then cut back to two leaves per branch. Instead, I’m hitting the reset button and will have to wait another year before enjoying the flowers.

Here’s another tree that got the same treatment.

Kozan

Kozan – 25″

Although it’s hard to see in the photo above, I left more foliage near the apex than I did on the lower branches.

Apex after cutback

Apex after cutback

Branch after cutback

Branch after cutback

I’ll report on the results of this work later this year.

News & Updates

Lotus Bonsai Nursery & Gardens is hosting their annual Spring Sale next weekend on May 15-16 in Placerville, CA. The event features 20% off of plants (pre-bonsai and refined specimens), pots, and stones. Learn more about Lotus at: http://www.lotusbonsai.com.

New trees and pots are available from Peter Tea at https://www.ptbonsai.com. A broad selection of conifers, deciduous, and broadleaf evergreen trees are available at different stages of development. Shipping is available on some, but not all trees. Learn more at https://www.ptbonsai.com.

The California Bonsai Society has announced that the Ben Oki Bonsai Scholarship Fund will be awarding two grants of one thousand dollars each to successful applicants this year. Learn more about the fund and how to apply at https://www.facebook.com/californiabonsaisociety.

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Filed Under: Bonsai Development Tagged With: Satsuki

Previous Post: « Evaluating vigor of trident maples in spring
Next Post: Spring cutback on Korean hornbeam »

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Gabe Monetti says

    May 7, 2021 at 7:10 am

    Interesting posts, Jonas. Here in NC we haven’t had that problem, but several of us are struggling with lack of flowers. Very few buds even on trees with luscious laves, treated with 0-10-10 during the winter. Very odd..

    • Jonas Dupuich says

      May 7, 2021 at 9:56 am

      I don’t use 0-10-10, and since buds typically form in summer on azaleas, winter treatment is too late to encourage flowers. A number of things can prevent buds from forming, but the most common is pruning the wrong way (removing buds that have set in summer) or at the wrong time (pruning late enough to prevent strong bud setting or by removing the buds in fall).

  2. Gordon Bowers says

    May 8, 2021 at 2:36 am

    I find it hard to tell from the photos – some of the cut end seem to be cut as though through a bud, others square across the stem; some just above leaves but others, I can’t tell if there are leaves appearing or not. Is this the case, the cuts are above leaves (even if they are only hints of leaves that i can’t make out)?

    • Jonas Dupuich says

      May 8, 2021 at 8:06 am

      You’re exactly right – some cuts are below the leaves, other cuts preserved two leaves, and some cuts run through the base of the flower bud. The tree was starting to bud out but the growth was uneven. My goal was to keep these new buds, when present, or two leaves on some, but not all of the branches.

      The suggestion for pruning was something to the effect of “cut where the branches are still brown near the tips and keep some leaves.” Because all of the leaves emerged right around the buds, it was difficult to be precise in preserving the new buds or leaves.

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