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Hitting the reset button

May 25, 2025 by Jonas Dupuich

If you’re not happy with a tree’s structure, you can always hit the reset button and remove any branches you’re unhappy with. This process looks different for different species but the basic idea is the same: remove any portion of the tree that lacks “good structure.”

For deciduous and broadleaf evergreen bonsai, this may mean removing any branches that lack taper and movement. For conifers, this might mean removing branches that lack ramification (branches that fail to divide).

Before doing anything drastic, I get trees really healthy, first by repotting, and second by letting them grow freely until they produce strong new growth. The next step is making the cuts. I usually do this in spring so the trees have as long as possible to recover over the remainder of the growing season. (For species like pine or juniper that don’t easily produce buds on old wood, I’ll graft before reducing primary branches to avoid branch dieback.)

I’ll say more about the overall strategy for the trees below down the road, but in the meantime, here’s what it looks like to begin the “reset” process on a Yaupon holly, a jaboticaba, and a coast redwood.

Yaupon holly

Yaupon holly

After reducing the branches in the front

After reducing the branches in the front

After pruning

Initial pruning complete

The ultimate goal for the holly is to reduce the long, straight primary branches. I’ve found that large branches can die back a little after pruning so I often do the reduction over two years. This year I removed most of the foliage to stimulate new buds all over the tree. I’ll plan a second reduction after the tree has responded to this year’s work.

Jaboticaba

Jaboticaba

After pruning to the previously defined silhouette

After pruning to the previously defined silhouette

Pruning complete

After removing the straight sections of the branches

Jaboticaba typically produce new buds all along the trunk and branches after pruning. When this happens, you can select the best branches to work with to create the silhouette you have in mind for the tree.

Coast redwood

Coast redwood

After pruning

After removing all but a few of the new shoots

I left a few shoots long which I can use to create new primary branches. I’ll keep the upper branches short this year to encourage the lower branches to thicken.

All of these trees will go back into the sun to stimulate new buds. I’ll cut back on the fertilizing for a while, but will increase the fertilizer as the trees begin to produce new growth.

News & Updates

[Pine workshops]

  • I’ll be hosting pine decandling workshops on June 14 from 9am – 1pm and from 2pm – 6pm. Bring any number of pines at any stage of development that need decandling or wiring. As the focus will be on decandling, the workshop is best suited for black and red pine bonsai. Sign up at the Bonsai Tonight Online Store.

[Local Show]

  • The Sei Boku Bonsai Kai will be hosting their annual bonsai show in two weeks on June 7-8 at the San Mateo Garden Center. The show runs from 10am – 4pm Saturday and 10am – 3pm Sunday. Headliner Jennifer Price will provide a demonstration at 1pm Saturday and lead a workshop at the same time Sunday. I’ll be vending to feel free to stop by and say hi!

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Filed Under: Bonsai Development Tagged With: Pruning

Previous Post: « Spring work for deciduous bonsai
Next Post: Decandling a field-grown pine »

Reader Interactions

Comments

  1. Daniel Carlson says

    May 27, 2025 at 10:37 am

    Interested in see what it will look like

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